DOI: 10.1002/grl.50464
论文题名: A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence
作者: Garnier R. ; Falqués A. ; Calvete D. ; Thiébot J. ; Ribas F.
刊名: Geophysical Research Letters
ISSN: 0094-8930
EISSN: 1944-8661
出版年: 2013
卷: 40, 期: 11 起始页码: 2726
结束页码: 2730
语种: 英语
英文关键词: morphodynamics
; morphological reset
; rip channels
; rip currents
Scopus关键词: Currents flowing
; Field observations
; Floating materials
; Morphodynamics
; Morphological model
; morphological reset
; Rip channels
; Rip currents
; Earth sciences
; Geophysics
; Straightening machines
; barchan
; morphodynamics
; obliquity
; rip current
; sandbar
; surf zone
英文摘要: Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) currents flowing seaward through rip channels. Understanding the behavior of such systems is fundamental as they control the entire surf zone dynamics, the shape of the coastline, and the exchange of floating material with the shoreface. Although the mechanisms behind the meandering of an originally straight bar have been studied extensively, a clear physical explanation on the crescentic bar straightening was missing. Recent field observations have highlighted that this morphological reset can be due to wave obliquity. By using a two-dimensional horizontal morphological model, we show that the bar straightening by oblique waves occurs because the rip current is both weakened in intensity and shifted downdrift from the channel deepest section. The technique employed is useful for the study of other types of bed forms. © 2013 American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved. URL: https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-84879897423&doi=10.1002%2fgrl.50464&partnerID=40&md5=339cc326ee76e6071d038e7a4571f138
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资源类型: 期刊论文
标识符: http://119.78.100.158/handle/2HF3EXSE/6194
Appears in Collections: 气候减缓与适应
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作者单位: Environmental Hydraulics Institute (IH Cantabria), Universidad de Cantabria, PCTCAN, C/ Isabel Torres 15, 39011 Santander, Spain
Recommended Citation:
Garnier R.,Falqués A.,Calvete D.,et al. A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence[J]. Geophysical Research Letters,2013-01-01,40(11).