DOI: 10.1002/2015GL066124
论文题名: Observations of runup and energy flux on a low-slope beach with high-energy, long-period ocean swell
作者: Fiedler J.W. ; Brodie K.L. ; McNinch J.E. ; Guza R.T.
刊名: Geophysical Research Letters
ISSN: 0094-8413
EISSN: 1944-8144
出版年: 2015
卷: 42, 期: 22 起始页码: 9933
结束页码: 9941
语种: 英语
英文关键词: energy flux
; high energy
; infragravity
; observations
; runup
Scopus关键词: Beaches
; Energy dissipation
; Optical radar
; Pressure sensors
; Water waves
; Wave energy conversion
; Energy fluxes
; High energy
; Infragravity
; Observations
; Runup
; Gravity waves
; beach
; bottom friction
; damping
; deep water
; energy flux
; frequency analysis
; gravity wave
; lidar
; nonlinearity
; observational method
; saturation
; sensor
; shoaling wave
; slope angle
; swell
; transect
; wave breaking
; wave height
; wavelength
; Agate Beach
; Oregon
; United States
英文摘要: The transformation of surface gravity waves from 11 m depth to runup was observed on the low-sloped (1/80) Agate Beach, Oregon, with a cross-shore transect of current meters, pressure sensors, and a scanning lidar. Offshore wave heights H0 ranged from calm (0.5 m) to energetic (>7 m). Runup, measured with pressure sensors and a scanning lidar, increases linearly with (H0L0)1/2, with L0 the deep-water wavelength of the spectral peak. Runup saturation, in which runup oscillations plateau despite further increases in (H0L0)1/2, is not observed. Infragravity wave shoaling and nonlinear energy exchanges with short waves are included in an infragravity wave energy balance. This balance closes for high-infragravity frequencies (0.025-0.04 Hz) but not lower frequencies (0.003-0.025 Hz), possibly owing to unmodeled infragravity energy losses of wave breaking and/or bottom friction. Dissipative processes limit, but do not entirely damp, increases in runup excursions in response to increased incident wave forcing. Key Points Wave runup was observed in extreme conditions on a low-slope beach Runup observations revealed no saturation of infragravity energy. © 2015. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved. URL: https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-84956874787&doi=10.1002%2f2015GL066124&partnerID=40&md5=06b4c836c108fc6a81ee0664acafd02f
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资源类型: 期刊论文
标识符: http://119.78.100.158/handle/2HF3EXSE/8029
Appears in Collections: 科学计划与规划 气候变化与战略
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作者单位: Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California, San Diego, San Diego, CA, United States
Recommended Citation:
Fiedler J.W.,Brodie K.L.,McNinch J.E.,et al. Observations of runup and energy flux on a low-slope beach with high-energy, long-period ocean swell[J]. Geophysical Research Letters,2015-01-01,42(22).