DOI: 10.1073/pnas.2013254118
论文题名: Probabilistic structure of events controlling the after-storm recovery of coastal dunes
作者: Rinaldo T. ; Ramakrishnan K.A. ; Rodriguez-Iturbe I. ; Vinent O.D.
刊名: Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America
ISSN: 0027-8424
出版年: 2021
卷: 118, 期: 1 语种: 英语
英文关键词: Beach dynamics
; Dune recovery
; High water event
; Marked Poisson process
; Wave runup
英文摘要: Coastal dunes protect beach communities and ecosystems from rising seas and storm flooding and influence the stability of barrier islands by preventing overwashes and limiting barrier migration. Therefore, the degree of dune recovery after a large storm provides a simple measure of the short-term resiliency (and potential long-term vulnerability) of barrier islands to external stresses. Dune recovery is modulated by low-intensity/high-frequency high-water events (HWEs), which remain poorly understood compared to the low-frequency extreme events eroding mature dunes and dominating the short-term socio-economic impacts on coastal communities. Here, we define HWEs and analyze their probabilistic structure using time series of still-water level and deep-water wave data from multiple locations around the world. We find that HWEs overtopping the beach can be modeled as a marked Poisson process with exponentially distributed sizes or marks and have a mean size that varies surprisingly little with location. This homogeneity of global HWEs is related to the distribution of the extreme values of a wave-runup parameter, HR= √HsL0, defined in terms of deep-water significant wave height Hs and peak wavelength L0. Furthermore, the characteristic beach elevation at any given location seems to be tied to a constant HWE frequency of about one event per month, which suggests a stochastic dynamics behind beach stabilization. Our results open the door to the development of stochastic models of beach, dune, and barrier dynamics, as well as a better understanding of wave-driven nuisance flooding. © 2021 National Academy of Sciences. All rights reserved. Citation statistics:
资源类型: 期刊论文
标识符: http://119.78.100.158/handle/2HF3EXSE/163885
Appears in Collections: 气候变化与战略
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作者单位: Rinaldo, T., Department of Ocean Engineerin, Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-3136, United States; Ramakrishnan, K.A., Department of Ocean Engineerin, Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-3136, United States; Rodriguez-Iturbe, I., Department of Ocean Engineerin, Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-3136, United States; Vinent, O.D., Department of Ocean Engineerin, Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-3136, United States
Recommended Citation:
Rinaldo T.,Ramakrishnan K.A.,Rodriguez-Iturbe I.,et al. Probabilistic structure of events controlling the after-storm recovery of coastal dunes[J]. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America,2021-01-01,118(1)